Lift each long main runner and set one end into place on the wall angle bracket at one side of the ceiling, with the single leg of the "T" facing up. Swing the other end up and position the runner exactly along the marker string and under the screw eyes in the joists.
Thread the bent end of each hanging wire through a hole in the runner leg; bend the end of the wire up and secure it. Check each runner with a level, and adjust the length of the hangers if necessary. Repeat until all main runners have been installed. Step 7: Install the cross tee sections of the ceiling grid. Snap the sections into place every 2 feet along the main runners. If you're using 2 X 2-foot ceiling panels, use 2-foot cross tees to divide each 2 X 4-foot panel in half.
Step 8: Install the panels. Tilt each panel to angle it through a grid opening, then carefully lower it until it rests on the bracket edges of the grid sections. Measure border panels carefully and cut them to size with a utility knife. To fit a panel around a post, carefully measure across the opening to the post in both directions; sketch the opening and mark the post.
Measure the diameter of the post. Mark the panel lightly where the post will go through it, then cut the panel in two exactly through the center of the post, across the shorter dimension. Carve an opening for the post on the inside cut edge of each panel, forming two semicircular or rectangular cutouts.
Cut only a little at a time, holding the cut sections up to the post frequently to fit them exactly. Set the two sections into place in the suspension grid. Sign up for our Newsletter! Mobile Newsletter banner close. Mobile Newsletter chat close. Mobile Newsletter chat dots. Mobile Newsletter chat avatar. Mobile Newsletter chat subscribe. Home Improvement.
Home DIY. Home Repairs. How to Install a Suspended Ceiling. Suspended ceiling panels are supported by a grid of runners and cross tees.
To install a panel, tilt it through the opening, then lower into place. Wall angles are long L-shaped pieces used around the walls of your room to support the tiles and runners. Since wall angles are usually sold in 8—12 ft 2.
If you want a mitered finish in the corners, cut the wall runner bottom-most wall angle at a degree angle. If your walls are longer than the wall angles, butt 2 of them together by lining up the ends.
Screw the wall angles into the studs along the line you drew. Use a stud finder to locate the studs in your walls and mark their locations with a pencil. Part 2. Cut the main runners to fit the length of your room perpendicular to the joists. The main runners will support the bulk of the weight of your ceiling. Measure the length of your room that runs perpendicular to the wooden joists of your ceiling.
Cut the runners with a pair of tin snips to the correct length. Use a chalk line or tie strings across your room every 4 ft 1. Secure the end of a chalk line on one end of your room and pull it tight to the other side. Snap the chalk line to leave a line on the joists. Move over 4 ft 1.
Keep moving across your room until you reach the other edge. Screw an eyelet into every third joist along your line. Eyelet screws have holes on the end so you can run wires through them to hang your main runner. Attach a lag bit onto your electric screwdriver, and set an eyelet inside the bit. Start placing your eyelets 3 joists away from the wall along each of your chalk or string lines. Keep adding an eyelet at every third joist.
Feed a length of wire through each of the eyelets. Cut a 8—10 in 20—25 cm piece of gauge wire for each of your eyelets. Feed about 2 in 5. Hang up the main runners by the wires. Feed the other end of the wire through one of the circular slots on the runner, and bend it up with your pliers.
Twist the wires around themselves at least 3 times to keep them secure. Adjust where the bend is in the wires if one side is higher than the other. Install the secondary runners perpendicular to your mains by clipping them in place. Locate the slots on the main runners every 2 ft 0. Lift your 4 ft 1.
Put a secondary runner every 2 ft 0. Part 3. Make holes in the tiles for any lighting or ductwork first. Locate any areas on your ceiling where you need to make an opening for your ducts or light fixtures. Trace the end of the duct or the size of the light feature onto the back of one of your tiles.
Cut the shape out of the tile with a sharp utility knife. Trim any edge tiles down to size with a utility knife. Transfer that measurement to tile and cut the piece to size using a utility knife. The flanges rest on your runners and make the tile have more dimension when you put it in your ceiling. Follow along the line with a utility knife, only cutting halfway through the tile. Make another cut on the side of the tile at the same depth as your first cut to remove the flange piece.
Lift the tiles through the grid and set them on top of the grid. Start in the center of your room and work towards the edges. Angle the tiles and lift them through the grid system. Straighten the tiles out before setting the flanges on the runners. Did you know you can get expert answers for this article? Unlock expert answers by supporting wikiHow. Andrew Peters. Support wikiHow by unlocking this expert answer.
Not Helpful 1 Helpful 1. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. Have a partner help you to make it easier to hang runners and tiles. Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0. Helpful 0 Not Helpful 2. Drop ceilings can be used to cover popcorn ceilings and other imperfections. Avoid using power tools when working with tiles since they could create a lot of dust. You Might Also Like How to.
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